Ghana Hair Chick's Letters: Henna for Natural Kinky Hair

Hello!
I hope we've all been quite good. Today I would like to share some information on henna use for natural hair. I took down my twists this past weekend and decided to do a henna treatment as usual. After I posted a picture of my hair in henna on the GHC Facebook page, I got questions about henna and I decided to share what I've learnt about it so far.

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Henna is a natural herb originally from Asia and the Middle East. Women in India especially have used henna for their hair for generations. I also have a friend from Iran who said henna is a regular part of their hair care routine and has been for hundreds of years. Most women in these countries use henna for  conditioning, strength, shine and color. Henna contains a dye which binds to hair strands very tightly. This dye is a reddish orange kind of color and is released as henna is mixed with acidic liquids and left out. The longer henna is allowed to sit in a paste form mixed with an acidic liquid, the more dye will be released. Some of us who have muslim friends may recognize this dye as the color on the feet and hands of our muslim brides. They dye their hands and feet with henna to celebrate their marriage.

Anyways, apart from color, the henna dye also acts like protein in binding to hair and making it conditioned and strong. This means just like a protein treatment henna can dry out hair and make it dry and brittle. It is very important to follow up a henna treatment with a good conditioner or to mix a conditioner and oil into the paste before applying it to your hair.

From personal experience, the henna dye is not very good at penetrating kinky hair and giving it color. If you do a henna treatment for color you may have to repeat it several times before you see any result. I have done 3 treatments so far and cannot tell the difference in hair color, but then my hair is naturally brownish to begin with so that may be why. I use henna in alternation with protein treatments monthly, so I should do 6 henna treatments per year, but with protective styling that usually reduces to 3. So far, I like the results on my hair since it helps with breakage and also making my hair strands stronger. One disadvantage for my hair is that my hair actually shrinks more after henna and the coils are tighter, making it more difficult to manage my hair. Other ladies report a loosening of curl pattern, so I guess the response to henna is very specific to your hair.

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Do you use henna? Share your experience with us!

Ghana Hair Chick's Letters: Tributes to the Fallen

Hello everyone! I hope your weekend has been good. This weekend came with bad news for the natural hair community.

First, Dominique Banks, also known as Long Hair Don't care 2011 on youtube, died from kidney complications. She had Lupus for a long time, and finally died at age 27. She began documenting her hair journey after being diagnosed with the disease. You may recall Dominique from the Heat Training post I did. Her video was the one I posted talking about how to use heat on your hair.

Dominique Banks

As if that wasn't enough, Karyn Washington, creator of For Brown Girls, died from suicide. Karyn had reportedly been struggling with mental health issues and died at age 22.
These ladies were both wonderful contributors to the natural hair community and it is so sad that they died at this time. May their souls rest in perfect peace.

Karyn Washington

In light of this news, I thought it would be important to point out that The African Naturalistas team and community is not here for only hair related issues, but also issues concerning your health and your life. If at any point in time any of you, our cherished readers, would like to talk about anything bothering you, please feel free to contact anyone of us and we will be more than happy to help. Your health and your life are very important to us, and we hope that this message is clear to you in every post we write or share.
Best wishes for a great week and thanks for reading!

Ghana Hair Chick's Letters: Change it up!

Hello All! I hope you enjoyed your weekend! Today's post will talk about how to switch your hairstyles to prevent boredom. If you're looking for new ways to change your look then read on!

1. Protective style
In my last post I talked about protective styles. Protective styles aren't just great for growing your hair. They can also help you change your look. If you're bored with your hair styles, try a wig, weave, braids, twists, buns or any other number of the protective styles available to you.

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2. Color it up!
Now I know some of you may be scared of color, but there are some pretty good options for hair color out there that will not damage your hair. Just be sure to do your research very well and follow instructions. If you don't want to go the chemical route you can use indigo or henna to color your hair.  Both are natural herbs that will actually make your hair stronger. You may also want to use a clip in hair extension to add color, or just add color to your favorite protective style.

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3. Wear it straight
The issue of heat is also a tough one, but done right your hair will not suffer any bad effects. Simply be sure to protect and condition your hair before using heat. Straightening your hair with heat is also guaranteed to changed your look and also give you an idea of your true length. It would also help you to trim your hair well.

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4. Get it cut, trimmed or shaped
This is a growing trend in the natural hair community. You can choose to get a hair cut or just shape your hair a particular way. While this is drastic, your hair will grow back eventually and some cuts are simply beautiful!

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5. Time to look a bit more traditional?
This one is not for the faint of heart, but you can wear your hair in a traditional African threading or Bantu knots. These are all intricate styles nod can be accessorised with some nice beads. You can try that if you want to and the results are usually fantastic!

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Do you have any other ways of changing your look?

Ghana Hair Chick's Letters: Protective Styling 101

Hello all! I trust we've all had a good week. This week's post will deal with a few misconceptions about protective styling and how to make protective styles helpful on our hair journeys.

Q: What is a protective Style?
 A protective style is any hair style that reduces manipulation and handling of your hair to the barest minimum. It is also any style that hides the ends of your hair (the oldest part of your hair). Examples include buns, wigs and braids.

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Q: What is the difference between a protective style and a low manipulation style?
Protective styles generally focus on no manipulation of hair, so your hair will usually be hidden away, such as in braids or under a wig. A low manipulation style will still require you to do some touch ups, like a twist out or braid out. However, a hairstyle can be both and it can be hard to tell the difference. Generally, so long as you aren't combing, stretching or trying to get your hair into a specific style everyday, that style is considered low manipulative. It is protective if the ends of your hair are hidden.

Q: How long should I keep a protective style?
This a very difficult question to answer. Generally, the length of time depends on your environment, the type of style, your maintenance of that style, your hair type and the type of products you're using on your hair. If you live in a hot dusty environment, it might be difficult to keep a style for a long time. If you use products on your hair that result in buildup, it will be very hard to keep a style for longer than a month. Generally, if your hair texture is very kinky, it can tangle up very easily and be very difficult to detangle, so shorter durations are advisable.

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Q: How do I prepare my hair for a protective style?
If you're preparing to put in a style, make sure you thoroughly cleanse and deep-condition your hair. You might want to do a protein treatment if you need one, but a moisturizing deep conditioning treatment is a must.

Q:How do I take care of my hair in the style?
Depending on the style you have, you will need to keep taking care of your hair. You will want to make sure you cleanse your scalp regularly, and moisturize your hair as needed. In general, try not to use heavy oils and butters on your hair in a protective style, as this will lead to build up and make detangling after take down a night mare.

How often you protective style depends on you, but remember that everything needs to be balanced. Protecting your hair 100% of the time and not letting it out may do more harm than good. If you have a busy schedule, you will find protective styling is your best bet for growing your hair healthy and strong.

What is your favorite protective style?

Ghana Hair Chick's Letters: What do you want to know?

Hello gorgeous naturals! I hope you're doing great. Happy Friday to all of us.

Geraldine the Great. Source

I have recently been thinking about the kinds of questions we ask people when we interview them for hair inspiration. It occurred to me that even though seeing pictures of their hair and knowing a bit of their regimen and products is helpful, there are other factors that could influence the health of hair that hardly ever comes up in the profiles. Some such information includes

-Whether they exercise and how often
-Whether they take dietary supplements, vitamins or use any growth aid on their hair
-Whether they drink a lot of water
-The kind of diet they consume
-Whether they use heat on their hair and how often

These are just a few questions I could come up with that I would like hair inspirations to answer. If there's anything you've ever wondered about a hair inspiration, post that question below and it will help to improve the profiles section of our various blogs.
You can also join me on Facebook to continue this conversation or to connect directly with me. I also post a lot of pictures so do check it out.
Thank you for stopping by and do have a fabulous weekend.
The Ghana Hair Chick

Ghana Hair Chick's Letters: Does your natural hair need some beer?

I know the title of this post is a little wierd, but I'm hoping by the end it makes sense. Is your hair flat, dull or heat damaged? Do you need to give your hair a resurrection (of sorts) ?
If you watch a lot of YouTube videos, then you've probably heard about the Beer Rinse.
There is the ACV rinse, baking soda rinse and now there's also the beer rinse.

What is the Beer Rinse?
Proponents of the beer rinse describe it as a final rinse with 'flat' non-alcoholic beer.

What are its benefits?
Based on videos I have watched and read, people who have tried this rinse claim it gives them softer shinier hair with great bounce and curls that pop. Of course if your hair is kinky like mine, then curls that 'pop' might be a bit of an overstatement. Some ladies with heat-damaged hair even claim that rinsing with beer reverses heat damage. Also, the hops used to make beer have some B-vitamins which can bind to your hair and strengthen it (theoretically).

How is it done?
Simply open a bottle of non-alcoholic beer and let it sit for a few hours till all the gas is gone (flattened beer). You can use alcoholic beer but remember you may not get such great results. You can mix your flat beer with an equal quantity of water and Apple cider vinegar or you can go ahead and use it like that. Either way, after washing your hair go ahead and use that to rinse your hair. if you don't like the smell you can add a few drops of an essential oil to take away that beer smell. After its in your hair, you can massage it in for a few minutes and leave it for a little while. Then rinse it out.

And that's it! Here is a video explaining this better. If you can't see the video use this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nL_vfEPUcL4

Have you ever tried this? Thanks for reading and have a great weekend!

 The Ghana Hair Chick

Ghana Hair Chick's Letters: Realistic vs Idealistic hair advice

Hola! I hope we are all doing wonderful today. Thank God its Friday! I wish you all a great weekend in advance.

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Today, I would like to talk about the kind of advice we give people considering having completely natural hair. As naturalistas, I think there are two types of advice we can give, and our advice falls into one category usually.

Idealistic advice is when we give the person all these good reasons for going natural and show them pictures of long haired great looking natural ladies. This is all well and good with the aim of encouraging them to go natural, but then it leaves out something very important: realism.

Realistic advice is usually about the challenges of keeping natural hair. The bad hair days. The number of hours it takes to wash our hair. The fact that its hard work and patience. The detangling battles. The fact that some textures are different from others. The shrinkage. The having to twist or 'pineapple' our hair every night if we want to look half-decent the next day. The list goes on and on.

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What type of advice should we be giving? I think we should learn to present a balanced view. Tell them about all these potential challenges but also let them know that the hard work pays off. When you have someone who has been completely dependent on salons for their hair care deciding to go natural, that person needs to know that salons are probably out of the question now. The person needs to know that they will have to work hard on taking care of their own hair. Showing them pictures of our own hair looking good can inspire them, but we should remember to let them know the long hours we spend making the hair look that way.


 I think we have a lot of natural haired ladies returning to relaxers because they didn't know all of this stuff before they went natural, and so when they experience it, they give up.
Would you agree or disagree? What advice do you give those wanting to be natural?

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Please be the first to comment below with your email address and you will win a N500 recharge card! Have a great weekend.

The Ghana Hair Chick

Ghana Hair Chick's Letters: Heat Training Natural Hair?

Hello lovely naturalistas! I hope we're all doing well.
Today I wanted to share something I found pretty interesting. Some natural haired ladies use heat to 'train' their hair and loosen the kinks so its more manageable. It helps to reduce knots and tangles according to them.
Here's a video for more details. Just in case you can't view the video, here is the link: http://youtu.be/sdAFhKuvPvE

What do you think? Would you heat train your hair? Leave a comment about the post below, and if you're the first to drop your email and network of choice along with your comment, the recharge card of N500 is yours.

Have a great weekend!

Ghana Hair Chick's Letters: Undercover Natural Hair Nazis

Happy Friday Natural beauties! I believe our weeks have been very productive and good to us. Today's post isn't answering a question. Instead, I want to ask a question.

Are you an undercover natural hair 'nazi'?

Let me try and explain what I mean. We all know some natural hair ladies who are always making it seem like everyone should have natural hair, putting down other ladies because they have processed hair and generally making everyone else feel like they are terrible for not being natural. I'm sure we have either met or seen one in a video somewhere or on some social media website. And I am also sure we all said that was extreme and we would never treat other people that way.On the flip side are what I personally call 'beauty nazis'. These people usually criticize you for wearing natural hair and say it looks unkempt or ugly. Either way, both these groups of people are 'nazis'.
However, I just realized that a lot of us could be that way without knowing it.
Recently, one of the well-known natural hair vloggers in the US decided to relax her hair for both personal and medical reasons, and the outcry was serious. People who condemned natural hair nazis before suddenly began telling off this vlogger, calling her a fraud and saying they were disappointed in her. They were highly unsupportive of her and generally made her feel like a failure. Here is a video of an interview with her talking about the response.

Now, that makes me think. What if one of African Naturalista's bloggers, say me, decided to relax or heat treat their hair? Would all you great readers treat us the same way? Would you all suddenly reveal that you've been undercover natural hair nazis all along? I think its something worth thinking about.

Please comment below with your thoughts on this issue. The first person to comment and leave their email address wins N500 of airtime. Thanks for stopping by and do enjoy your weekend.
The Ghana Hair Chick

Ghana Hair Chick's Letters: Why Valentine's Day and your hair may not be best friends

Hello lovely naturalistas and Happy Valentine's Day! I hope that we are all doing very well and the dryness isn't affecting our hair too adversely. If it is, the team here at African Naturalistas is here to help with tips and of course the awesome product line! If you haven't tried the products yet, please do and you won't regret it.
Since we've been pretty scientific in the past, I thought I'd try a fun post today. It is Valentine's day so I'm writing on why I think Valentine's Day and your hair may not be best friends. Ready? Let's Go!

1.You may wear your hair out for a date
 If you are interested in length retention, then you probably know that wearing your hair out (especially hair with texture like mine (4C,4Z,4K etc lol) is not helpful at all. Unfortunately, since that fine looking brother is taking you (I mean us) out for dinner, some of us will wear our hair out. This will result in tangles, knots, shrinkage and exposure to the very dry weather. This is definitely not what we want. To avoid this, let's try more up-dos, fake up-dos if your hair isn't long enough and buns if possible. If your hair cannot do any of these styles, then please do not go out without moisturizing your hair and sealing with oil today ! Of course, if you don't want to wear your hair out, you can still wear your protective style really nicely or wear a wig. I'm sharing pictures of various styles in this post for inspiration.

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2.You may heat style your hair
Again, another no-no for those of us wanting length and health. Heat styling without appropriate protection will be disastrous, so please avoid heat damage if you plan to use heat. Here is a useful article with tips on heat-protecting your hair:
http://www.africanaturalistas.com/2014/01/how-to-protect-natural-hair-when-using.html

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3.You may be impatient and yank out your hair
This is a very legitimate one oo! Knowing how long some of us take to dress, if we're trying to style the hair and its being stubborn, we may cause a lot of damage. Please try and start preparing your hair far in advance of your outing. That will really save you the pain of breaking your hair due to rough handling.

4.The satins scarf/bonnet may go out the window tonight
In an effort to look romantic in bed, satin bonnets and scarfs may not be worn tonight. Please remember the damage rubbing your hair against your pillow or bed sheet does and to to wear a bonnet. To be honest though, I'm not sure just one night of not wearing a bonnet would be so bad. However, I have to be honest and tell you the risk of breakage will increase if you do it so be ready.

5.Hand in Hair Overload!
Whether you're alone tonight or not, it is very likely hands will be touching and pulling on your hair strands if you're wearing your hair out. That may result in a lot of breakage, but once again, unless you're really concerned, one night will not destroy all your hard work of protecting your hair so far.

These are the reasons why I think Valentine's Day and your hair may not like each other much. This is one of the days you're likely to over-manipulate and forget about protective styling. Let's try our best to make sure our hair stays protected still, despite all the fun..:D. What other ways can you think of that your hair will not happy this Val's day? Be the first to post a comment and get N500 in recharge credit! Happy commenting!

The Ghana Hair Chick

Ghana Hair Chick's letters: Dealing with dry itchy scalp and Dandruff

Hello beautiful naturalistas! I hope we're all doing well and this harmattan is not affecting our hair negatively at all. Today I wanted to share a video that I found very useful on the subject of dry scalp. If you are having issues with a dry itchy scalp as well as dandruff this will be a very useful video for you. I hope its helpful to you even if you don't have a dry scalp so enjoy!

The free credit promotion is still ongoing. Be the first to comment on this post with a question or suggestion and you will receive N500 of airtime. That sounds like a good deal to me so please comment! Till next week, may your scalp not get dry..:D.
The Ghana Hair Chick

Ghana Hair Chick's Letters: Is it important to do an ACV rinse on your Natural Hair?

Hello gogeous readers! I believer we're all healthy and strong. In last week's post, I began answering the question on what an ACV rinse is and if its benefecial. Today's post is continuation of that post and will conclude on the benefits of an ACV rinse.

Question
What are the benefits of an ACV rinse and are these benefits supported by scientific research?

To answer this question, please be sure to read last week's post on what an ACV rinse is. Some form of vinegar has been used for centuries by women to rinse their hair. At the tme it was to remove limescale deposits on their scalp. Today, an ACV rinse is recommended by people for all manner of conditions, including,

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• dry, dull looking hair
• damaged, limp hair
• dry or oily scalp
• acne or dandruff in scalp and hair
• highly porous hair
• to close the hair cuticle
• provide some nutrients to the hair
• anti-fungal and anti-bacterail
• restore hair pH to acidic levels
• remove buildup in hair and scalp
• give hair body and volume
• etc etc.

As you can see from this far from exhaustive list, there are many supposed benefits of an ACV rinse. However, are these benefits unsupported by scientific fact? Let's look at some of the most popular claims and try to find out.

1.Making hair shiny, reducing hair porosity and closing the hair cuticle

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ACV rinses are claimed to result in shiny hair and less porous hair. It is also supposed to assist in closing the hair cuticle because of the acidic pH. The shiny-ness of hair is result of the cuticle lying flatter, giving the hair a smoother shinier appearance overall. The hair's cuticle is a protein structure which can be examined microscopically. When its structure appears raised under the microscope, hair feels rough to the touch, it is not as shiny and loses moisture quickly (high porosity). When the cuticle structure appears flat microscopically, hair looks smoother and shinier with a higher ability to retain moisture.The structure of the cuticle is known to be affected by several things, including heat and alkaline chemicals like relaxers. These can change the structure of the hair cuticle/protein and make it look flatter.
The hair cuticle has been shown in experiments to stay unchanged in solutions in the pH range of 3-9.This means that the cuticle is unaffected by a pH between 3 and 9, but reacts in pH conditions below 3 or above 9. (Please note that the hair cuticle lying down or being raised is a figurative description, as the cuticle is a protein structure that simple changes in response to different conditions, not a door that opens or closes).
Since the pH of undiluted ACV is not below 3 and does not exceed 9, it cannot scientifically affect your hair cuticles. In fact, diluting it with water may  raise the pH, since water is neutral to alkaline in pH. Rinsing your hair with cold water would probably have more of an effect on your cuticles than an ACV rinse, theoretically.

2.Anti-bacterial, anti-fungal,anti-dandruff action, anti scalp irritation

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This is true to a certain extent , since acetic acid is a well studied anti-fungal and anti-bacterial agent. However, the effects vary with the strength of the acid in your vinegar. If you have dandruff caused by a fungus, then ACV may be able to help, but if the dandruff is of a different cause, then an ACV rinse may not be helpful. Please consult a dermatologist in this case in order to diagnose the real cause and find appropriate treatment for it.

3.Removing Build-up
Historically, women used vinegar to rinse their hair in order to remove limescale. This action is attributed to the acid in vinegar and not any other component. There is no research on modern chemical build-up in hair and scalp and how vinegar might remove that, so with this claim I cannot make a conclusion. Acids are generally known to help in removing lime-scale, but since most build-up is chemical, it is very difficult to determine if acids are effective in this case.

4.Providing nutrients to hair
The mother of ACV is supposed to contain some nutrients which are good for your hair and body. Unfortunately, this is simply not true. After fermentation most of the vitamins and minerals are broken down and are no longer present. Aside from this, hair is dead material. It is not living and therefore cannot absorb nutrients or process it. Any product that claims hair will absorb nutrition from it is simply incorrect. The only way to feed your hair is to eat the nutrients you want it to have.

5.Restore hair pH to acidic levels
The pH of hair is normally around 5 depending on the products you use in your hair. Since ACV has a low pH, it is possible that it might help to balance your hair's pH. Ideally we would want our hair to remain in its natural pH range, but it becomes necessary to adjust it ourselves only when we use a lot of alkaline products in our hair. Again, not much has been done scientifically here, so unfortunately we cannot conclude.

6.What does the mother in ACV do then? Can you use any type of vinegar?

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So far, it would seem the mother of vinegar is not contributing anything to the hair. The yeast and bacteria present have not been investigated to see thier effect on hair. Most of the effects that can be supported scientifically are derived from the acid in ACV. Therefore, at this point we would have to conclude and and say it doesn't matter what vinegar you use in your hair. However, future research could reveal some role for the mother so it doesn't hurt to use the unfiltered version of ACV. Plus, the natural unrefined version of a natural product is usually the best. Scientifically though, it really shouldn't affect your hair whichever one you use.



Conclusion
You can use ACV, but do not expect to get some kind of miraculous solution to your hair issues with it. Its definitely not something I'd make a hard and fast rule about, but as with everything hair related, try it out and see how it affects your hair. Then you can make a decision on whether to keep using it, how often to rinse your hair with it or how much to use. Someone using it may be able to tell you its useful, but everyone's hair is different. Also remember to take any allergies or reactions you may have to acids into account when trying this out. Above all, take care of your body and see a doctor if some conditions are medical with your hair.

I hope this has been a helpful post. If you have any questions or comments, please post them below and they will be addressed. Till next time then, stay blessed and fabulous!
The Ghana Hair Chick

Ghana Hair Chick's Letters:The ACV Rinse on Natural Hair Part 1

Hello gorgeous naturalistas! Many greetings and well-wishes for your health and happiness. I hope you've all been enjoying the new year and everything it comes with.I also hope my previous posts on shedding and breakage were very helpful to you.If you still have questions, you can leave a comment and I will try my best to deal with it!
Today's letter deals with a very common question that has been asked over and over by almost every new natural haired lady.

Question
What is an ACV rinse ? Is there any scientific backing to the claims being made about its benefits on natural hair?

I will begin to answer this question this week, but in order to keep it short I will leave the concluding part till next week.

 What is an ACV rinse? 

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ACV is an abbreviation for 'Apple Cider Vinegar'. This is a type of  vinegar produced by fermenting the must or cider of apples. The must of a fruit is the juice of that fruit in addition to its seeds,skin and flesh as well. Even though cider usually refers to an alcoholic or fermented beverage, apple cider is used to refer to the unfiltered juice of apples and  contains particles from the flesh of the fruit. When this  cider is left out or specific yeasts and bacteria are added to it, a fermentation process converts glucose to alcohols and then acetic-acid forming bacteria convert this alcohol to acetic and malic acids. These acids generally give the vinegar its sour taste and reduces the pH that makes vinegar acidic. I hope we all remember some of our Chemistry, but just in case you forgot, a pH of 0-6.9 is considered acidic,7 is basic and 7.1-14 is alkaline. ACV  has a pH of 4.25-5, well within the acidic range. Natural hair usually has a pH of around 5, depending on what products you're using and so on.

As you may have guessed by my answer above, there are different types of vinegar and cider vinegar. Vinegar is usually the pure acetic acid obtained from the process above mixed with water.Therefore, it can come from any source, fruit or glucose containing solution. Even though cider vinegar is usually ACV, it can sometimes refer to the cider vinegar produced from other fruits such as grapes.

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There are also two main types of ACV: raw, organic and unfiltered or filtered apple cider vinegar. Raw ACV is unpasteurised  or 'un-sterilised' ACV. Hence, it still contains living bacteria and some yeast. Organic simply means that no chemicals or artificial preservatives were used in growing the apples or making the ACV. Finally unfiltered ACV is not filtered to remove any particulate matter. Therefore, it is quite usual to see a layer of solid material at the bottom of the bottle of raw organic ACV. Filtered ACV is usually clear with no particles in it.
One important claim about the benefits of ACV involves the particles and microbes left in it, or the 'mother' as it is commonly referred to. The mother of ACV is a cobweb-like layer of particles, bacteria and yeast found in raw unfiltered or organic ACV. The mother is believed to help with a lot of conditions in the human body, and by extension, natural hair. Because of this, most ACV rinses recommend organic ACV and not any other type of ACV. Does it matter what type of ACV used? We will get to that in the benefits section.

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An ACV rinse  involves rinsing hair with a solution of ACV and water. The proportions vary, but usually ranges between a few tablespoons of ACV in one cup of water, to one part ACV and one part water. When practicing an ACV rinse, most people wash their hair and use the ACV solution last before their final rinse and styling.
In order to decide if an ACV rinse is for you, please check back for the final part of this article to find out the beneficial claims of an ACV rinse on your hair and if these claims are supported by science. If you have any questions before then, please feel free to drop a comment below. Till then, stay blessed and beautiful!
The Ghana Hair Chick